No, no, no, no, no.
The decision by Mars to turn the
plump, round Malteser into a flat button has sent shivers of horror down the
spines of those of us for whom it is their favourite sweet.
For those of my generation, the Malteser
box was the glamorous delicacy you gazed at longingly at the cinema: every
rattling bauble a new jewel to be savoured. Not that you ever got as far as the
wrapping, though – your parents having told you they were too expensive, as you
clung to the small tube of pastilles they’d bought you before attending.
The consumption of a Malteser is a
gastric art form: first, a tiny bite of the chocolate, breaking the virgin seal
where the promise of crisp honeycomb lurks beyond. Then, nibble by nibble, your
teeth taking off each piece of the jigsaw until the beige baldness shines in
all its glory.
And, oh, what glory. The slow melt of gold as the bubbles burst
on your tongue; the final cloying stickiness that gradually melts between your
teeth. The decision which one to have next – seemingly all the same but, like
snowflakes, all completely different. Now, apparently because of falling sales,
we are to get a button. Are there not enough buttons and their ilk in the sweet
world already?
Manufacturers destroy entire personal
histories when they re-design our sweeties. Remember when Cadbury, without any
warning, dropped the Orange Crème from Milk Tray? The Orange Truffle tried to
sneak its way in, hoping that no one would notice, but the interloper was soon
exposed, and national outcry ensued.
There was another fiasco with Rowntree
when they tried to re-invent the Aero bar (what is it about bubbles that these
people don’t understand?). One day, the Aero bar was filled with bubbles - a
bit like the Polo mint, the marketing was in the hot air that filled in the
gaps. It was even patented.
Such was Aero’s bubble success, Rowntree decided to
expand. They made bubbles mint flavoured; then they made them orange flavoured.
As the Only Milk Chocolate Aero in the Sweet Shop Village, the original Aero
bar had a right to be concerned, but had to accept that its new cousins were
all part of the same family.
Then, it all went horribly wrong:
Rowntree decided to change not only Aero’s inside, but its overcoat, and the
sweet world was never the same again.
One minute, Aero was Woody in Toy Story:
Aero Man, with its big, creamy, bubbly, milk chocolate hat; then, they chose to
make it Caramel Lightyear, a smothering, cocky concoction of soft toffee, hated
not only by everyone who loved Old Aero, but other sweeties, who consigned it
to the leftover baskets in supermarkets. To this day, Rowntree keep trying to
reinvent the bubble.
Then there was Twix. They tried a new low
calorie version that, like sticky Aero, found itself heaped into rejects crates
at cash tills.
I predict the same disaster for the flat
Malteser. Now, here’s a revolutionary thought, Mars. How about putting them
back in the bags that were easy to open? Maybe it’s not that people have gone
off the sweet, but they can’t get at the darned things anymore.
And tell the
guys over at Cadbury to do the same things with their Flakes that now require a
saw to reach the chocolate log.
Save Our Maltesers.
The campaign starts
here.
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