It’s over 33 years since I stood the other side of a
bar, serving customers rather than filling up the pub’s coffers.
My first attempt at bartending was when I was 18, at the
Welcome to Town in Bridgend. I lasted two nights. I hated the smoke and, as a
passionate, lifelong anti-smoking hysteric, could not bear emptying the
ashtrays.
My second stint was when I first moved to London and,
against fierce competition, landed a job behind the bar at the Palace Theatre
in the West End. “I’ve had hundreds of people after this,” the manager told me,
“but I’m giving it to you, because I like you.”
I bought a dress from Etam (£17.99) for my new glamorous
life. After the curtain went up on Les Miserables, the manager came to the bar
to see how I was doing. I was drenched head to toe in mixers, the white collar
on my dress a rainbow of orange and lemon. I’d been opening them the wrong way,
creating a vacuum in the bottle that resulted in a fountain in my direction
with every one I opened.
I lasted just two nights. The manager was very
disappointed. He thought I had huge potential. I didn’t. Les Miserables had
nothing on the misery etched on my poor little face as I stripped another
lemonade from my previously perfectly coiffed Eighties perm.
That was the end of my landlady ambitions. As well as
the smoke, I hated the rudeness, the clicking of fingers, the lack of the words
“thank you” and “please”; most of all, I hated the exhaustion – physical and
emotional.
Being on one’s feet for hours at an end is bad enough;
coupled with the psychology of dealing with everyone on an individual basis,
according to their drinking and personal needs, made this easily the most
difficult job I’ve ever done. I think that to this day and admire anyone who
does it – and, yes, as a customer I always say please and thank you.
On Saturday night, almost 33 years to the day since I
departed the Palace Theatre, I found myself again serving behind a bar. My
friend Saz, her sister Emma and their mother Heather have bought the Victoria
pub in Oldfield Park in Bath. It’s been renamed the Victoria Bath and in
addition to regulars is attracting a new clientele, some of whom haven’t been
to the pub in years; some have never been there at all.
The weekend featured a local band, The Woods, who specialise
in 50s and 60s music, and from the outset they had the place rocking. It was
packed. When I arrived, people were standing four deep at the bar. Saz and
Heather were serving and, when Heather waved, I enthusiastically waved back
like the nonchalant Petunia in the Coastguard TV commercial, when her husband
Joe shouts “LOVELY DAY, ISN’T IT?” to a drowning man.
Realising the imminent danger (thirsty people), I
started to collect glasses but soon joined my friends behind the bar. I was
dressed head to toe in Issey Miyake Pleats Please and wearing five inch heels;
the till was still too high for me to see it without standing on my toes, and I
could barely read the names of the drinks as I had only my cheap supermarket
reading glasses on me.
The ale pints were hard to pull and initially I had too
much froth (a lovely local told me what I was doing wrong). I also could not
remember what they were called and have now re-named them all (Butcombe is now Buttocks; Doombar, Dumbo).
The Fosters lager was a dream to pour (I could have kissed everyone who ordered it), and I didn’t spill a drop of single and half measures on the shorts. Maybe all my years of saying “Could you fill it to the top, please?” paid off.
The other thing that paid off was my maths ‘O’ Level. I
grew up in a time when mental arithmetic was de rigeur. I was doing complicated
fractions at the age of seven (thank you, Durham Road Junior School, Newport)
and can do calculations in my head. Even today, I use a calculator only to work
out how much weight I have gained or lost by converting kilograms into pounds
with the multiplication x2.20462 (I am nothing if not precise).
Punters were incredibly patient as I learned on the job
– as were Saz and Heather, who had to keep showing me what was what on the till.
There was so much to learn.
How big is a dash? Is it greater or smaller than a
splash? Who wants head on the beer and who doesn’t? Where is the scoop for the
ice kept? Actually, that last one was easy: it’s under that Everest of ice I
just poured into the bucket without taking the scoop out first.
I begged to ring the bell and call “Time at the bar,
ladies and gentlemen, please,” a phrase that one man told me he hadn’t heard
for 30 years (yes, that would be about right; old habits die hard).
The next day, I could barely walk. I still can’t. Feet,
back, calves – I feel as if I’ve run a marathon.
But here’s the thing: I really, really enjoyed it. I
spend my life in front of a TV or computer screen and don’t get to talk to that
many people during my working day. It was great to meet so many different folk and to see them having fun on what proved to be a very successful night. I’ve
never been called “love” so many times in one day, and I enjoyed that, too (but
don’t try it when I’m on the other side of the bar or you’ll get a smack in the
gob).
There is something immensely satisfying in serving
others, either literally or metaphorically. I loved engaging with new people
and my work colleagues; I even liked wiping down the tables when everyone had
gone and adored the post-match analysis with Saz and Heather.
I remain adamant that bar work is very, very tough: it
looks easy, but it really isn’t. I have the injuries to prove it. When I come
out of traction, I might try it again.
But for today at least, I’m calling my time at the bar.